Let's discuss the aspect of control and why I wholeheartedly believe that no piece of equipment alone offers any control over a horse.
So yesterday after I had finished riding Grace (who, as usual, was incredible) I took her down to the field wearing her bridle. When I got there two other ladies from the yard were stood at the gate and one of them (we'll just call her A) noticed my hackamore and asked if I rode bitless. I told her I did and explained the function of the hackamore. A told me that she wanted to train her youngster bitless but stated she was concerned for the 'lack' of control she would have. As I went on to explain my view, the other lady (we'll call her B) said that a hackamore is extremely severe in the wrong hands. An irrelevant statement if you ask me, as we know that anything used with an intent to hurt the horse can be used as such - even a carrot!
Anyway, back onto the topic! It seems so many people have this fixed idea that a bit alone communicates to the horse to stop, slow down and turn, etc. They believe that it is the equipment itself that offers 'control' and without it, they'll have an uncontrollable horse.
This view is completely wrong. I'll tell you now it is the TRAINING behind the equipment you use with the horse that offers this idea of 'control'. If you hopped onto an untrained horse, shoved a bit in its mouth and began asking it to turn, slow down or stop, do you think it would? No, of course it wouldn't because the horse has not been TRAINED to understand what these pressures mean and therefore does not understand how to respond to them in a way in which we WANT them to respond.
It's the same idea with a hackamore or any other piece of equipment. If I shoved a hackamore on my own mare back when she was unbacked and unbroken, do you think she would have responded as she does now, stopping when I lift the reins, turning with the pressure of one rein? Absolutely not. It is the TRAINING behind it. I have taught her, through pressure and release, how I would like her to respond to the pressure applied via the reins.
My point is it does not matter what piece of equipment you use. A bit, hackamore, bitless bridle, rope halter, neck rope etc... NONE offer any amount of 'control' alone. Yes, they all offer certain degrees of pressure, restrictions (and unfortunately in many cases with bits, pain) but what matters is how this horse is trained to respond to the pressure applied to them. You can use the strongest, most agonizing bit in the world with huge shanks in an attempt to control an uncontrollable horse. Will the horse respond? No. Because the horse doesn't relate the pressure applied to him with any actions because the rider hasn't taken the time or patience to train the horse how to 'correctly' respond to pressure. This is why it frustrates me when people tell me they're buying a stronger bit for their horse because they cannot stop their horse or their horse won't listen. A stronger piece of equipment isn't required - RETRAINING is!
If you are not willing to put the time, effort, sweat and tears into training your horse consistently then it is the horse who pays the price for your lack of understanding of how training works. If you find your horse is 'ignoring' you or your aids when riding, question YOUR actions rather than laying the blame on the horse and look at how YOU can improve how you communicate with your horse rather than assuming the horse knows what he's doing. Do your research, educate yourself and DON'T go out buying stronger pieces of equipment thinking they're going to offer any more control. What your horse does is down to YOU.
Lucy Balmer
18 ans
Loisir
Non Compétiteur
1 Cheval
Amateur
Propriétaire
100 cm
I am the owner of a young 14,2hh skewbald cob living in the UK. She is my first horse who I received on the 28th November 2016. Currently, she is in the breaking progress and is proving to be very willing and honest! We ride bitless and aim to succeed together through natural horsemanship methods.
So far so good! :D
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Do you know Alycia Burton, if so, have you tried things she does (bridleless/bareback)?
I've tried bareback and I'm not going to lie, I think it's the most difficult thing in the world, especially on a bouncy cob like my own! I don't do it too often since I know horse's backs are sensitive (hence the purpose of a saddle) but it definitely increases your balance.
Would you rather stroke your horse when he refuses to jump or punish him, and why?
Punishment should be completely out of the question. If anyone believes in punishing a horse for anything then they need to get off that horse and hand him over to an educated horseman.
My mare rarely refuses jumps and when she does I have never felt the need to punish her by hitting her with a whip. It's controlling, spoilt and cruel - that's a fact. Instead, I allow her to look at the jump before I re-approach it and continue to do so until she eventually jumps it (she always will in the end) and I allow her to rest as a reward once she does, always giving lots of praise.
Horses need time and are allowed to say no. We forget that we are not in control and it's simply down to the horse's willingness and tolerance which allows us to work together. Punishing a prey animal for losing confidence not only portrays us people as controlling and abusive but it frightens the horse into submission. Horses should never be forced to do something out of fear or pain.
My mare rarely refuses jumps and when she does I have never felt the need to punish her by hitting her with a whip. It's controlling, spoilt and cruel - that's a fact. Instead, I allow her to look at the jump before I re-approach it and continue to do so until she eventually jumps it (she always will in the end) and I allow her to rest as a reward once she does, always giving lots of praise.
Horses need time and are allowed to say no. We forget that we are not in control and it's simply down to the horse's willingness and tolerance which allows us to work together. Punishing a prey animal for losing confidence not only portrays us people as controlling and abusive but it frightens the horse into submission. Horses should never be forced to do something out of fear or pain.
How to get a horse to canter on lunge? She won’t canter on the lunge or under saddle and I've got to get her on lunge first but she will only trot and toss her head
Initially, I thought this was a balance or strength issue until you mentioned that your horse tosses her head. Horses toss their head to communicate a protest to what you're requesting. For example, in a herd you often see proud geldings or stallions trotting around tossing their heads if they are trying to move another horse's feet or if another horse is trying to move their feet (act of dominance). It's not 'naughty' behavior (no horse intends to be naughty) but it certainly is not submissive or obedient and shows a lack of respect on your behalf.
You need to prove yourself to your horse that you can be trusted enough that she is willing to move as fast as you need her to. Consistent groundwork is essential. Simply making your horse run in endless circles does not communicate respect or confidence. You need to ensure she moves her feet quickly, with effort and you are asking with authority rather than nagging with the whip which so many people do! Move her feet back, left, right and forwards. Exercises such as yielding the hindquarters/forequarters, backing up, lunging for RESPECT (changing directions consistently) works brilliantly.
I highly recommend you watch some of Clinton Anderson's groundwork videos. They're very educational and if you put his ideas into practice then your mare will be much more willing to canter in no time. Believe me,
You need to prove yourself to your horse that you can be trusted enough that she is willing to move as fast as you need her to. Consistent groundwork is essential. Simply making your horse run in endless circles does not communicate respect or confidence. You need to ensure she moves her feet quickly, with effort and you are asking with authority rather than nagging with the whip which so many people do! Move her feet back, left, right and forwards. Exercises such as yielding the hindquarters/forequarters, backing up, lunging for RESPECT (changing directions consistently) works brilliantly.
I highly recommend you watch some of Clinton Anderson's groundwork videos. They're very educational and if you put his ideas into practice then your mare will be much more willing to canter in no time. Believe me,
Would it be a good or bad idea to use spurs on more of a forward going horse?
Bad idea. Using more force than required on any horse will dull them to the natural leg, hence why the majority of riding school ponies have a tendency to be 'lazy' off the leg as they have been kicked countless times by beginners and have learned to ignore it as a result. If your horse responds perfectly fine to your leg and has already been well trained to do so then why would you feel the need to use spurs? They apply a large amount of pressure to a horse's side due to the small surface area they have and any mistake made by the rider is more than likely to cause distress to the horse which is why you tend to see professional riders using them on highly trained horses who understand how to respond to the lightest aid applied via the spurs. Any sudden jolts into the horse's side are definitely not going to be comfortable for any horse.
How do you reassure a horse who's scary?
I completely agree with Ashley. It's difficult to reassure a spooked horse in the moment of him becoming frightened since his flight response will have already kicked in. The most you can do is prepare your horse beforehand by practicing desensitization exercises, doing lots of groundwork to gain his respect by moving his feet (backing, lunging, yielding the hind and forequarters, etc).
I'm going to elaborate on the idea of pressure and release and how the idea of 'release' is the horse's reward, in case you were wondering what reward Ashley was referring to.
Naturally, horses communicate through body language. When a horse wants another to move, he will approach the other and, by doing so, will apply pressure to this horse. The horse being approached will move away from this pressure and when he does move away he gains release. Horses will always learn from the release of pressure since less pressure is positive for the horse. Therefore, this horse has learned that if a horse approaches, if he moves away (the right answer) he will gain release and is able to relax. We can apply this idea in training - especially in desensitization!
There are numerous videos available on youtube which explain how to desensitize horses. Clinton Anderson is especially good at explaining this and applies the idea of pressure and release to his training methods. I highly recommend checking his videos out to benefit you and your horse!
I'm going to elaborate on the idea of pressure and release and how the idea of 'release' is the horse's reward, in case you were wondering what reward Ashley was referring to.
Naturally, horses communicate through body language. When a horse wants another to move, he will approach the other and, by doing so, will apply pressure to this horse. The horse being approached will move away from this pressure and when he does move away he gains release. Horses will always learn from the release of pressure since less pressure is positive for the horse. Therefore, this horse has learned that if a horse approaches, if he moves away (the right answer) he will gain release and is able to relax. We can apply this idea in training - especially in desensitization!
There are numerous videos available on youtube which explain how to desensitize horses. Clinton Anderson is especially good at explaining this and applies the idea of pressure and release to his training methods. I highly recommend checking his videos out to benefit you and your horse!
What are some advice for horses who don't get along and have to live together (when they are in the same paddock, one hurts the other)?
Although it may not look nice for some to see their horses fighting, horses fight one another all the time in order to test to see who is the 'higher horse'. In a herd, horses will make their way up herd 'rankings', communicating with others through the only language they understand; body language.
They don't fight to intend to hurt one another, rather they fight to move the other horse's feet which ultimately results in victory. You see it all the time. When a horse approaches another, you'll often see this horse moving away from the approaching one to offer it space and to submit to the pressure that the lead horse is putting on them. They're social prey animals and work in groups, unlike predators who will fight in order to intimidate and punish.
Honestly, I'd just let them have a conversation and discuss who is the 'higher' horse between the two of them. Once that is established you will very rarely see them fighting. One of them will submit to the other eventually.
If you get involved and break it up you're not allowing the horses to communicate as horses should, therefore ending a conversation which has not yet come to a conclusion over which horse is the 'higher' horse between the two. As a result, they will continue to fight until the pecking order is established.
They don't fight to intend to hurt one another, rather they fight to move the other horse's feet which ultimately results in victory. You see it all the time. When a horse approaches another, you'll often see this horse moving away from the approaching one to offer it space and to submit to the pressure that the lead horse is putting on them. They're social prey animals and work in groups, unlike predators who will fight in order to intimidate and punish.
Honestly, I'd just let them have a conversation and discuss who is the 'higher' horse between the two of them. Once that is established you will very rarely see them fighting. One of them will submit to the other eventually.
If you get involved and break it up you're not allowing the horses to communicate as horses should, therefore ending a conversation which has not yet come to a conclusion over which horse is the 'higher' horse between the two. As a result, they will continue to fight until the pecking order is established.
What is the best bit to start with?
A lot of people are saying snaffle but despite its simplicity, I disagree.
Before investing in a bit it's important to look at your horse's mouth. Check to see the size of his tongue and how low the palate is. If his palate is low, the nutcracker action of a snaffle will dig into the roof of his mouth and most likely cause pain responses such as head tossing and excessive chomping on the bit. If he has a small narrow tongue, the action of a snaffle will put more pressure on the knife-like bars of his mouth, which is extremely uncomfortable for the horse.
I'd begin with a bit which is more contoured to the horse's mouth, such as a double jointed bit rather than a single jointed snaffle. There are various options out there such as a lozenge bit, french link, roller... They focus more on tongue pressure. My mare has a large tongue and although we ride bitless she rides best (in terms of bits) in a happy mouth double jointed roller.
I'd hate for you to waste your money, so taking a look at your horse's mouth anatomy will really help assist the kind of bit and bit action you're looking for.
Before investing in a bit it's important to look at your horse's mouth. Check to see the size of his tongue and how low the palate is. If his palate is low, the nutcracker action of a snaffle will dig into the roof of his mouth and most likely cause pain responses such as head tossing and excessive chomping on the bit. If he has a small narrow tongue, the action of a snaffle will put more pressure on the knife-like bars of his mouth, which is extremely uncomfortable for the horse.
I'd begin with a bit which is more contoured to the horse's mouth, such as a double jointed bit rather than a single jointed snaffle. There are various options out there such as a lozenge bit, french link, roller... They focus more on tongue pressure. My mare has a large tongue and although we ride bitless she rides best (in terms of bits) in a happy mouth double jointed roller.
I'd hate for you to waste your money, so taking a look at your horse's mouth anatomy will really help assist the kind of bit and bit action you're looking for.
Do you think a double corkscrew is too harsh for schooling in? The lady that showed me the horse got it and I've been thinking about replacing it.
Honestly, they're about the same. Both are just as narrow as each other built for the same purpose. The only real difference is that a corkscrew design is more pointed and sharp compared to twisted wire. Either way, there's no doubt that both of these bits are designed to apply severe pressure to the horse's mouth and I strongly disagree with the use of them.